The sticker price isn't your real cost basis. Shipping, insurance, and dealer fees all belong in that number — here's how to account for them correctly.
Short answer: your true cost basis is everything you paid to acquire a holding, not just the listed coin or bar price — shipping, insurance during transit, payment processing fees, and any dealer markup separate from the quoted premium all belong in that number, since each is real money spent to get that metal into your possession.
A dealer's listed price for a coin is usually just the product price — shipping and insurance (often required for higher-value orders) get added at checkout, and some payment methods carry their own processing fee. If you only record the listed price as your cost basis, your tracked portfolio will show a better unrealized gain than you've actually achieved, since you're ignoring real money you spent.
Take your total order confirmation or invoice amount — not the line-item coin price — and divide by the quantity purchased to get your true cost per unit. If an order mixes multiple items, allocate shipping and fees proportionally across them (by value or by weight, whichever your tracking system uses consistently) rather than ignoring the overhead entirely.
A flat $15 shipping fee is a rounding error on a $5,000 order but a meaningful percentage addition on a single $300 coin purchase. Smaller, more frequent orders accumulate proportionally more overhead relative to the metal itself — worth factoring into whether frequent small purchases or occasional larger ones make more sense for your actual buying pattern.
In most jurisdictions, acquisition costs like shipping and insurance are legitimately part of your cost basis for capital gains calculations — but tax treatment varies by location, so this is worth confirming with a tax professional for your specific situation rather than assuming a blanket rule applies everywhere.
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